Another great article on the Washington wine industry was recently published in well-known magazine
Wine Enthusiast, August 2007. As opposed to focusing on particular wines or wineries
Paul Gregutt instead chose to pay tribute to some of the most influential and sought after vineyards of Washington State. While there are numerous vineyards that produce some of Washington’s finest wines this article only focuses on four.
“I could easily name 25 or 30 that could qualify for star status, but in choosing just four I have looked for well-established sites that sell grapes to some of Washington’s best wineries. All are frequently used for vineyard-designated bottlings, generally of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. All have shown over decades that they not only reflect, but to a large degree exemplify, the specific flavors that characterize their AVA.”
These four vineyards include Ciel du Cheval (Red Mountain AVA), Pepper Bridge (Walla Walla, AVA), Champoux (Horse Heaven Hills AVA), and Boushey (Yakima Valley AVA).
Ciel du Cheval (meaning “horse heaven”), owned and operated by Jim Holmes, is one of Washington’s most sought after spots with big bold fruit, firm (but manageable) tannins, fine-tuned acidity, and a distinctive mineral/gravel undertone. All of which produce wines that have the ability to age for decades, but can also be enjoyed right now. Some well-known wineries making Ciel du Cheval vineyard-designated wines include Andrew Will, Cadence, Mark Ryan (2004 Dead Horse Red Blend – 94 pts), McCrea Cellars, Seven Hills, and Soos Creek.
Pepper Bridge, owned and operated by Norm McKibben, includes plantings mostly split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This low elevation site produces wines with flavor characteristics dominated by black cherry, as well as other sweet, ripe fruit. Know producers include Andrew Will, L’Ecole No.41, Leonetti Cellars, Pepper Bridge (2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – 91 pts), and Woodward Canyon.
A little over half of
Champoux (pronounced “shampoo”), managed by Paul Champoux, is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, with most of the remaining planted to Riesling and Chardonnay. Many of the wineries that utilize these grapes also operate as vineyard partners, who own and manage their own blocks, including Andrew Will (2004 Red Wine – 90 pts.), Powers, Quilceda Creek, and Woodward Canyon. Champoux flavors can vary depending on which grapes, which blocks, and which plantings are used.
Boushey, with grower Dick Boushey, creates powerful wines, that come as close as any Syrahs made in America to the expressive combination of smoked meat, cured ham, black truffle, charcoal, pencil lead and smoke that you find in Rhône. Among top wineries using Boushey fruit include Betz Family, Chinook, Delille, Doyenne, Long Shadows, McCrea (2004 Syrah – 94 pts.), and Three Rivers, where they use the higher acids and crisp profile to proved a firm spine to grapes from other warmer sites.
